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Preparing a vehicle for a concours event is an in-depth process. Here are a few reasons to consider a trained professional for Concours projects. The vehicles we specialize in are often delicate and have irreplaceable or hard-to-find components. They are going to be scrutinized not only by the judges but by the general public as well. It is a very time-consuming process that can take a week if not two or three. While Some may struggle to stay focused during the intricate process, this is where we thrive.
Proper Concours Preparation goes beyond cleaning and protecting a vehicle; Often, it involves correcting defects and areas that were either previously missed or caused. While painters are skilled at laying down a nice coat of paint and ensuring it is as uniform as possible, they may not have the training to get the most out of the paint via paint correction. This shortcoming is by no means an indictment of painters. They are excellent at what they do.
This deficit is where we come in. We put the cherry on top by reviewing your collection with extreme attention to detail to ensure your vehicle is ready for any concours event you plan to attend. Furthermore, if you need us, we can be onsite for the concours to help set up your car and do a final wipe-down.
Before we consider paint correction, we need to assess the condition of the vehicle’s paint. Most of the time, when working on Classic or antique cars, there will not be a lot of contamination or surface dirt; however, we have seen many times where the paintwork, while looking good, was not done to a concours standard.
It is crucial to take measurements of the paint depth and conduct a thorough visual inspection. Depending on the condition, this inspection can take up to a few hours. Most vehicles we work with are not extremely dirty, but if this vehicle came from a barn find and has decades of dust and dirt, there would need to be a wash first.
During the initial inspection, we will also look for anything that appears incorrect. A bolt out of place, a cable not mounted in its bracket, and paint chips on wheels, among other things, could lead to a lower score at your Concours Event. We aim to point these out in time to have them resolved before the event.
Significant differences exist between waterless and rinseless washing; here, we will focus on the chemical difference and why we choose when to use each one.
Waterless washing is just that, waterless. With a waterless wash, we use the product and a dry media such as microfiber towels to work with the product. Waterless washes use more emulsifiers than surfactants, making them an ideal candidate for very clean or slightly dusty vehicles. Waterless washes are also great for the final wipedown on the show field.
Rinseless washing involves using water and, depending on the vehicle’s condition, may still require a pre-rinse with a pressure washer before performing the Rinseless wash. Rinseless washes use more surfactants than emulsifiers, making them an ideal candidate for slightly dirty vehicles. Rinseless indicates there is no need for a final rinse; it does not mean there is no need to rinse the vehicle before or during the process. How often and when you spray the vehicle will depend significantly on its condition. We do not usually use this method unless circumstances dictate it is the best option.
If we need to break out a pressure washer anyway, we will likely do a full wash, which is the best and safest way to clean modern vehicles.
A full wash is the safest way to clean modern and excessively dirty vehicles. A full wash uses soap and water and dedicated products for specific situations. This process includes a pressure rinse, including tires, wheel wells, fuel doors, and undercarriage, making it ideal for vehicles that see regular use. After the bulk of the gritty dirt is rinsed clear from the surfaces, we can work to remove the remaining dirt. Using a proper wash method, we clean the rest of the vehicle. Follow that up with a final rinse, and we can move on to the stuff that would not budge with the full wash, i.e., Contamination.
In certain scenarios, performing a full wash on antique and classic cars may be necessary. When done cautiously, a full wash is a viable option. Even on vehicles that are not entirely watertight, we use caution and remedy any water that has permeated the seals. This is another area where our experience, patience, and attention to detail set us apart.
Chemical and mechanical decontamination are very different, but they are trying to tackle a similar concern: removing foreign debris from the vehicle. Foreign debris can be either embedded in or bonded to the paint.
Embedded contamination is usually in the form of rail dust, little ferrous bits of metal that work their way into the paint. Identifying this contamination on the back of a poorly cared-for white vehicle can be easy.
Bonded contamination is the contamination you can feel, debris that has bonded to the paint and will not come off during a proper wash. Have you ever heard of someone mentioning a plastic baggy test? Bonded contamination is what they are looking for. Bonded contamination can come in many forms and often does. On one vehicle, there could be paint overspray, sap, artillery fungus, and old pollen, among others. When you have a lot of bonded contamination, it is vital to ensure it is all removed. Unlike embedded, any bonded contamination will affect how well the paint correction process goes and potentially the results.
Embedded and Bonded Contamination will affect how well a sealant or wax holds up. It would also affect how a coating will hold up. We do not coat vehicles that do not get at least some paint correction or perform paint corrections on vehicles without proper decontamination. This policy is how we can guarantee our work and the longevity of our coatings.
During our pre-correction inspection, we verify the measurements recorded during the initial inspection. Verifying these measurements is a crucial step to determine if any waxes or glazes may have falsely inflated the depth of the paint. It also helps us know if we need to look for intentionally hidden areas and closely investigate them to determine the best course of action. During this step, we also perform a test spot to dial in the proper combination of tool, pad, and product.
Jeweling is the least aggressive method in the paint correction toolbox: the products we use for jeweling use light abrasives to achieve desired results. Jeweling is not aggressive enough to remove visible defects; instead, it gives the paint greater depth and shine.
Polishing is not as straightforward as jeweling in terms of capabilities and results. Depending on the polish, pad, and tool selected, it can be a moderate to aggressive process. Polishing a vehicle can remove many defects in the paint and will finish to a high shine and deep gloss. For the majority of daily drivers and road-going cars, this is the last step. Vehicles with darker colors or ones meant to show in a concours environment should have a jeweling step completed.
Compounding is not the most aggressive process in our “knowledge toolbox”; however, it is excellent for removing many or deep defects. Compounding allows us to remove more paint than polishing or jeweling in less time. While we would never want to prioritize speed over keeping the paint as thick as possible, we also need to control the heat generated at the paint surface. This heat build-up, caused by friction, can cause other issues with the paint, including complete failure. Compounding as a first step affords us less time with the buffer on paint. Compounding will leave behind micro-marring; this is where our polishing step comes in.
Sanding is our most aggressive option; typically, we work with sandpaper grits from 1000 to 3000 grit (wet and dry). We may go slightly more aggressive in certain situations; however, we would never need to go less aggressive than 3000 grit as our compounding comes into play. Sanding is sometimes necessary but should only be used like a scalpel, targeting areas to remove more significant defects. Sanding is also essential to resolve errors or issues during the paint job. Dirt nibs, paint runs (which should not be present on a show vehicle; we’ve seen it), and excessive orange peel. We would need to use sandpaper to succeed in these areas.
Depending on your location and the environment in which the vehicle is operated one or both of our protection options are worth considering. Ceramic Coating and Paint Protection Film (PPF) are the two best ways to protect your paint. Both offer protection from UV rays, Both prevent contamination from bonding to the paint, and both make maintenance easier. Where PPF outperforms ceramic is in the scratch and impact resistance it provides. A quality Paint Protection Film will also have self-healing properties. These self-healing properties will ensure minor micro-marring and minor rock impacts will virtually disappear after being left in the sun. For this reason, we recommend Paint protection film for any vehicle that is going to be attending rally events, race events, or that you plan to regularly drive.
Coming Soon we will be offering Dry Ice cleaning which is the best way to clean both the engine bay and the undercarriage.
Steam cleaning is our current preferred method for cleaning
Coming Soon we will be offering Dry Ice cleaning which is the best way to clean both the engine bay and the undercarriage.
Steam cleaning is our current preferred method for cleaning
Based In Lancaster, Pennsylvania – Providing National Support
